Santorini Beyond the Sunset: What the Postcards Don't Show
Santorini's sunset from Oia is one of the most photographed moments in the world — and one of the most crowded. But the island has far more to offer than the image that has come to define it.
Santorini is the caldera of a volcano that erupted around 1600 BCE in one of the largest volcanic events in recorded history, and the island's extraordinary topography — the sheer cliffs of the caldera rim, the black and red sand beaches, the villages perched at the edge of the drop — is a direct consequence of that catastrophe. It is one of the most geologically dramatic places in the Mediterranean, and the beauty of it is inseparable from its violent origins.
The sunset from Oia is genuinely spectacular — the sun dropping behind the caldera rim, the white buildings turning gold, the cruise ships in the bay below catching the last light — but the experience of watching it has been somewhat diminished by the crowds that now gather on the castle walls two hours before sunset to secure a position. The alternative is to watch from the caldera path between Fira and Oia, where the view is equally good and the crowds are thinner.
The villages of Pyrgos and Megalochori, in the interior of the island, offer a Santorini that the cruise ship passengers never see — medieval Venetian architecture, wine tavernas with views over the entire island, and a pace of life that the caldera villages lost decades ago. Pyrgos was the island's capital until the 19th century and its castle, at the highest point of the island, offers the finest panoramic view of Santorini.
Santorini's wine is one of the island's best-kept secrets. The volcanic soil produces Assyrtiko grapes of extraordinary mineral intensity, and the wines made from them — particularly the dry whites and the sweet Vinsanto — are among the finest in Greece. The wineries of Domaine Sigalas, Santo Wines, and Gaia are all open for tastings, and the combination of excellent wine and caldera views makes for one of the Mediterranean's finest afternoons.
The ancient site of Akrotiri, buried by the volcanic eruption of 1600 BCE and preserved under the ash like a Minoan Pompeii, is one of the most important archaeological sites in the Aegean. The excavations, protected by a modern roof, reveal a sophisticated Bronze Age city of multi-storey buildings, indoor plumbing, and frescoes of extraordinary quality — a civilisation that was at its peak when the volcano ended it.
The beaches of Santorini are unlike any others in Greece — the Red Beach, with its dramatic red volcanic cliffs, and the Perissa and Perivolos beaches, with their black volcanic sand, are striking rather than conventionally beautiful. The water is clear and the swimming is good, but the black sand absorbs heat and can become uncomfortably hot by midday in July and August.
The best time to visit Santorini is May, June, or September — when the weather is warm, the sea is swimmable, and the island has not yet reached the saturation point of July and August, when the cruise ships disgorge thousands of passengers daily and the caldera path becomes a slow-moving queue. October is also excellent — the light is extraordinary, the prices drop significantly, and the island returns to something approaching its natural character.
