Peru's Rainbow Mountain: The Andes in Technicolour

Vinicunca, known as the Rainbow Mountain or Montaña de Siete Colores, sits at 5,200 metres above sea level in the Cusco region of the Peruvian Andes, about 100 kilometres southeast of Cusco. The mountain's extraordinary striped colouring — bands of red, gold, green, purple, and white running horizontally across its flanks — is the result of different mineral deposits laid down over millions of years: red from iron oxide, yellow from sulphur, green from chlorite, purple from manganese, and white from quartz. The mountain was covered by glaciers until recently, and its vivid colours were only exposed as the ice retreated — a consequence of climate change that has made Vinicunca both a natural wonder and a symbol of environmental loss.

The hike to the summit of Vinicunca begins at the trailhead near the village of Cusipata, about three hours by road from Cusco, and covers 7 kilometres each way with an elevation gain of 500 metres. The trail passes through a landscape of high-altitude grassland — the puna — dotted with grazing llamas and alpacas, with views of snow-capped peaks in every direction. The altitude is the main challenge: at 5,200 metres, the air contains only about half the oxygen of sea level, and even fit hikers may find themselves breathless and light-headed. Spending at least two days acclimatising in Cusco before attempting the hike is strongly recommended.

The Ausangate mountain, at 6,384 metres the highest peak in the Cusco region, dominates the landscape around Vinicunca and is one of the most sacred mountains in the Andean world. The Quechua people regard Ausangate as an apu — a mountain deity — and the Qoyllur Riti festival, held at the foot of the mountain in May or June, is one of the largest indigenous religious gatherings in the Americas, drawing tens of thousands of pilgrims who make the overnight trek to the glacier at 5,000 metres to collect ice as a sacred offering.

The Ausangate Circuit, a five-day trekking route that circumnavigates the Ausangate massif, passes through some of the most spectacular high-altitude scenery in the Andes — glacial lakes of vivid turquoise and green, hot springs at 4,800 metres, herds of wild vicuña grazing on the puna, and the extraordinary coloured mountains that surround the circuit. The trek requires camping and a degree of physical fitness, but it is one of the finest multi-day treks in South America and is far less crowded than the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.

The communities around Vinicunca — Quechua-speaking villages of farmers and herders who have lived at these altitudes for centuries — have benefited significantly from the tourism that the Rainbow Mountain has generated since it became widely known around 2015. The entrance fee to the mountain supports local conservation and community development, and the horse rental and guiding services that operate on the trail provide income for families who previously had few economic alternatives. The rapid growth of tourism has also brought challenges — erosion of the trail, waste management, and the disruption of traditional land use — that the communities are working to manage.

The best time to visit Vinicunca is during the dry season from April to October, when the skies are clear and the trail is not muddy. The rainy season from November to March brings clouds that often obscure the mountain and makes the trail slippery and difficult. The most popular time is June and July, when the weather is most reliable, but the trail can be crowded with tour groups from Cusco. Arriving at the trailhead before dawn and hiking in the early morning gives you the best chance of reaching the summit before the clouds build up in the afternoon.

The Palccoyo Rainbow Mountain, an alternative to Vinicunca that is less well known and less crowded, offers a similar experience of coloured mineral mountains at a slightly lower altitude of 4,900 metres. The hike to Palccoyo is shorter and less strenuous than the Vinicunca trek, and the landscape includes three separate coloured ridges rather than a single peak, giving a broader panorama of the mineral formations. For visitors who are concerned about altitude or who want to avoid the crowds at Vinicunca, Palccoyo is an excellent alternative.