Niagara Falls: The Thundering Border Between Two Nations
Six million cubic feet of water plunge over Niagara Falls every minute, and standing on the Maid of the Mist boat as it approaches the Horseshoe Falls, drenched in spray, is an experience of pure elemental force.
Niagara Falls consists of three waterfalls straddling the border between the Canadian province of Ontario and the American state of New York — the Horseshoe Falls on the Canadian side, and the American Falls and Bridal Veil Falls on the American side. The Horseshoe Falls, 57 metres high and 670 metres wide, carries about 90 percent of the total flow and is the most powerful waterfall in North America by volume. The falls were formed at the end of the last ice age, around 12,000 years ago, when the retreating glaciers carved the Great Lakes and the Niagara River began to flow northward from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario.
The Maid of the Mist boat tour, which has been operating since 1846, takes passengers to the base of the Horseshoe Falls in a journey that is simultaneously thrilling and humbling. The boats approach the falls until the spray is so dense that visibility drops to a few metres and the roar of the water makes conversation impossible. Passengers are provided with blue ponchos that provide minimal protection against the spray — by the time the boat turns back, everyone is thoroughly soaked. The tour operates from both the Canadian and American sides of the river and is the most popular attraction at Niagara.
The Canadian side of Niagara Falls offers the better views — the Horseshoe Falls can be seen in their full width from the promenade along the Niagara Parkway, and the Journey Behind the Falls attraction allows visitors to walk through tunnels to observation decks directly behind the curtain of water. The American side offers the Niagara Falls State Park, the oldest state park in the United States, where the Cave of the Winds attraction takes visitors to the base of the Bridal Veil Falls on wooden walkways that bring them within metres of the cascading water.
The Niagara River, which connects Lake Erie to Lake Ontario over a distance of 58 kilometres, has been harnessed for hydroelectric power since the 1880s — Nikola Tesla's alternating current system was first demonstrated at Niagara in 1895, and the falls now generate over 4,000 megawatts of electricity for the United States and Canada. The amount of water flowing over the falls is regulated by treaty between the two countries, with more water diverted for power generation at night and during the winter months when tourist numbers are lower. The full natural flow is restored during the summer tourist season.
The town of Niagara-on-the-Lake, 20 kilometres north of the falls on the Canadian side, is one of the best-preserved 19th-century towns in North America — a collection of Georgian and Regency buildings along a main street lined with gardens and boutique shops. The town is the centre of the Niagara wine region, which produces some of Canada's finest wines, particularly the ice wine made from grapes that have frozen on the vine. The Shaw Festival, held in Niagara-on-the-Lake from April to October, is one of the finest theatre festivals in North America, specialising in the works of George Bernard Shaw and his contemporaries.
The Niagara Falls Illumination, which lights the falls in changing colours every evening from dusk to midnight, is one of the most spectacular light shows in the world — the combination of the volume of water, the mist, and the coloured lights creates an effect that is both theatrical and genuinely beautiful. The Friday and Saturday night fireworks displays, launched from the Canadian side of the river, add another dimension to the evening spectacle. The falls in winter, when the mist freezes on the surrounding trees and railings to create an ice palace of extraordinary beauty, are arguably even more impressive than in summer.
The best time to visit Niagara Falls is from June to August, when the weather is warm and all the attractions are operating at full capacity. The falls are open year-round, and the winter months offer a unique perspective — the ice formations around the base of the falls and on the surrounding trees are spectacular, and the crowds are much smaller than in summer. The falls are most powerful in spring, when snowmelt from the Great Lakes watershed swells the Niagara River to its maximum flow. Staying on the Canadian side is recommended for the best views and the widest range of accommodation and dining options.
